Brakes3

Where the screws went in to mount the original master cylinder you can use two flat head socket cap screws (allen head) to secure the lower part of the mounting bracket and provide room for the booster to mount against the wall.

To remove the nuts on the top part of the pedal mounting bracket it is more difficult than on the website my husband referenced. It took quite a lot of prying to get them out. They are only secured by a thin metal lip and are not welded or anything like that. Basically you have to rip them out. Also while you have some room you will want to grind away some of the bracket by the lower right stud as noted in the picture below so that you can get a washer and nut on it without interference. You could also just put the washer and nut on just as the stud comes through the firewall. Also if you are having trouble getting this stud all the way through the firewall it may be bumping up against that lip and you will have to grind it away anyways.

These are the two nuts after they were removed. They don't look like much but they caused a lot of swearing.

The rod from the booster fits right onto the pin on the brake pedal. What my husband discovered though is that the pedal ends up practically on the floor. To fix this he merely removed the pedal arm from the car, pressed out the pin and drilled and reamed a new hole .400" forward on the width of the pedal arm. Yes, you can use the manual pedal as long as you do this modification. Now the pedal is in practically a stock height.

This is also a good time to bring up reinforcement. My husband recommends putting a plate of steel either between the booster and firewall or firewall and pedal mounting bracket. After doing this swap on my car without the reinforcement he can see how much the firewall flexes. A 1/8 inch stainless steel plate would probably do the trick.